kimmaytube

HAIR CARE, FASHION & LIFESTYLE MINI-BLOG

“Creative Freedom Ain’t Free”: A Case for Professional Hairstyles

This informally written spontaneous “tweet rant” was inspired by LIFE. :o)

Regarding #naturalhair … 

Okay, I’m gonna tell ya’ll something. I will always be practical when it comes to maintenance & hair styling. Why? Mainly now because of time management but previously for professional reasons as well. 

At this point in my life? I’m not even the leastbit concerned about “creative hairstyles”. All I care about is what I can realistically sustain. When it comes to #naturalhair I want the following:

1) A style that will hold up nicely;

2) A style that makes detangling/wash day easier;

3) A style that minimizes tangles and knots, which reduces hair breakage; and

4) A style that reflects who I am, NOT any current trends.

Because I’m thinking about this baby on the way, the home I have to maintain, the body I have to maintain (or rather, get back) & time for my husband.  You, know?  Real life priorities.

WHY BUSY HAIR-DOS ARE NOT MY THING

I am 35 yrs old. I don’t like “busy” looking hairdos. I don’t want or need my hair to be the center of attention. In fact, I don’t even like that. I guess you could say I prefer the more “conservative” hair styles. Hair styles that simply complement what I am wearing. Again, nothing too busy.

And dare I say? DARE I SAY? I also want hairstyle that reflects where I am socio-economically. What does this mean? lol. I’ll explain.

When I was a consultant for 7 years? Because I look much younger? I had to play down that youthfulness. Which by default means conservative clothing and hair style choices. Why? Because I couldn’t roll up in the business meeting wearing hairstyles that reminded my clients of their KIDS & expect them to PAY me a lot of money!

No, I didn’t want to and still don’t want to look like the chicks from the reality shows. Sorry. That includes (crazy) hair colors too. :-/

I know a lot of people are influenced by pop culture, hair shows, etc. That’s fine. Do your thang! :o) But don’t everexpect me to do so.

What some of you might call “boring” hairstyling has been my business strategy for years. I do not want to be confused for something I’m not. I’m NOT trying to stand out.

HAIRSTYLE  BIASES  EXISTS  FOR  ALL  RACES 

I don’t like when folks make “hair restrictions” & hair style biases a racial thing. Are you kidding me? White, asian, latina have “code” too!  Over the past 20 yrs I’ve worked for over 100 American companies. (As a temp and later a business consultant)  Let me tell you. I can walk into any corporation and tell you who the receptionist is, who the directors are, and  point out the CEO.

Yes, sometimes just based on their appearance alone. I can guess where you rank in your company’s power hierarchy.

In fact, it is usually quite easy to figure out the hierarchy of white, asians and latinas, by their hairstyles and hair colors. As representatives of their companies, there are certain hairstyle trends that they must follow in order to be taken seriously.

If you don’t think the same thing goes for black women, then you are delusional. We are not exempt. The same appearance biases applies to us as well!

I tell people all the time. These biases exist in the professional world. Creative expression is not you right. Don’t like it? Work to become your own boss!

And believe. Its not just white folks who are judging your appearance & presentation! I think black folks are the quickest to assess you.

I came from areas some would call the hood. I know better. I know how it feels to be categorized. But I’m also not stupid. I get the game. And again, until you achieve some level of power or influence? You’re not changing a thing. You have no more control over this professionalconservative appearance bias than women of other races.  So if the white chick in the office has to “tone it down” to be taken more seriously in the office? Meaning her hair cut & color? So do you. :-/

Why am I saying all of this? Because people keep getting me confused. Asking me why I don’t try this hairstyle, hair color or that. Uh, No. lol. Some po’ child thought I’d consider it an insult that my “librarian” hairstyle bun was too boring for her. Well guess what? It got me HERE.

I worked my conservative hairstyles & appearance to my advantage. Because “boring” ain’t bad when you want to convey “I’m smart, pay me WELL”.

So save your need for “creative expression” for the weekend! There’s a time and place for everything.

THE  STORY  OF  TWO  ”PET PROJECTS”

Its so amusing to me the way some people harp on principle alone & think certain aspects of business institutions are going to bend to them.  Certainly, you can do whatever you what. Wear and color your hair however you desire. Absolutely. But don’t think for one sec there aren’t tradeoffs.

As a temp, back in the day? I’ve been the young receptionist. Receptionists do not set the trend for the Sr. Directors & CEOs. Reality Check! I’ve witnessed quite a few young white women (some without college degrees) get groomed literallyfor better paying jobs.

What do they call it? “Power hair cuts and color”. Look no further than any popular mainstream magazine if you doubt this. 

I’ll tell you about two women.  They both happen to be white. 

One chick was hmm, how do I say this nicely? “Rural”. The other was just sloppy honestly. But the same high powered woman gave them makeovers! I don’t know what it is about some of these high level white businesswomen and makeovers! But they love it. LOL! They love grooming folks for better paying jobs.

Its like, these women were “pet projects”. I’m not kidding, okay? But in the end both of those women got jobs they probably barely qualified on paper to do.

Pet Project #1 “The Rural Woman”: One of the “pet projects” was previously an administrative assistant. How do I know? Because I was her replacement. She was magically transformed to office manager.  Which meant better pay and a higher status. Keep in mind, this new job provided her with skills and work experience that she could take anywhere. This can’t be stressed enough.  When you are promoted?  It affects yourlifetime earnings and socio-economic status that you then pass down to your children.

So over the next few years? “Rural woman’s” salary probably doubled, possibly tripled. No lie. 

Pet Project #2 “Sloppy to Refined”

And the other young white woman? The one I said was a little sloppy in appearance? OMG! Her makeover? She got totally “prepped out”.  I mean from head to toe or rather hair to shoes.  A job was actually created for the formerly sloppy, but now PREPPY white chick.  And after a few years had passed, everyone just saw her as that preppy woman.  She got so comfortable and confident in her new role and new look that we almost forgot where she came from!

So I literally witnessed the transformation of these two women.  I saw them re-packaged and “branded” for better paying jobs. They needed new, upgraded, refined looks in order to be perceived suitable for their new roles. To convince other “higher-ups”, I guess. :-/ Bottomline? Appearance matters.

And Kim Love was taking notes. Okay? LOL. ;o)

And the lesson was this: A HUGE part of the better paying job is looking the part. As they say, dress for the job you want. HAIR to toe.

So please don’t think appearance bias in hair and wardrobe only affects black women.  This is simply not true.

WHAT ARE “PROFESSIONAL” STYLES? HERE A FEW GOOD RULES OF THUMB

I’ve had #naturalhair since 1997. Basically, my entire career. Having natural hair has never held me back. Because it was all in how I STYLED it. 

* Do I think an afro PUFF alone is unprofessional? Nope. But an afro puff combined with some braids or flat twists on each side? Yup! Too busy.  My rule for more professional, conservative office-friendly hairstyles?Only ONE hairstyle at a time. Not a combo salad of a bunch of stuff.  Weekend or after hours style!

* I think the hairstyles black women wear on @CNN (or anchors) or Congresswomen are also a good rule of thumb. Why? Because folks of all race/ethnicities are used to seeing these hairstyles.  They become professional norms.

* Folks are used to seeing black women wearing extension braids in NATURAL looking hair color dark brown (sorry not blond or any other creative coloring).

* Folks are also used to seeing locs too. But not free form kind. <—Creative NYC advertising agencies? Sure. But not typical corporate world.

Last thought. Don’t think for one sec hairstyle / biases rule do not apply to women with relaxed or wigs. Ombre coloring may be the trend, but I guarantee you no top level (read: higher paid) women in the office will be sporting the ombre color look. Again, there’s time and place for everything.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Since I used to travel a lot to different companies in different states? I usually defaulted to my conservative hairstyles. I call it “smart, strategic conformity”. 

I was constantly meeting new clients. And in most cases, we had not met beforehand because all of the meeting planning occurred over the phone. So when they finally met me in person? My look had to match the professionalism I conveyed over the phone. As a hired consultant?  I represented their companies too!

Remember this: When you OWN the company? When you are the boss? Dowatchulike. But until then? You don’t set the rules or trends. 

Me? I played by the rules. I made my money, so that I can run my own show and do whatever I want. But I earned that right. I paid my dues. Creative freedom ain’t free.

 

Latest Youtube video.  Enjoy and SHARE!!

Sponsored by http://www.luvnaturals.com Make-up done for PHOTO SHOOT.

This is my second time “blowing out” my hair (essentially straightening my hair with a blow dryer). Last year I braided my hair, this time I put my hair into about 9 bantu knots for a wavy texture. The make-up was done for my recent photo shoot (hence the exaggeration of everything!) ;o)

FAQ’s

Q1) How long have you been growing your hair?
A1) For 4.5 years total (but I started really taking care of my hair 3 years ago) The longest parts of my hair now reach my hipbone.

Q2) How has pregnancy affected your hair growth?
A2) Honestly? Not noticeably. Was actually hoping to benefit from “pregnancy hair”. But MY hair has been long for a WHILE now due to my preservation & protective styling methods. So I’ve noticed very little change in my hair shed pattern. I shed about the same. Then again I have 2 months to go, so that may change.

PLUS my hair was already waist-length prior to pregnancy, so “all this hair” is the result of my EFFORT. No magic! No magical products! (although *I* think my upcoming product line is pretty dope) :o)

Q3) Did you color your hair?
A3) No. no. no. I’ll admit it looks darker, but I do not use any dyes on my hair whatsoever. I pluck out the 15 or so gray hairs that show up in my crown. 
If my hair color looks different, as in DARKER? It is due to the lighting (one video was filmed at night/ the other in daylight). Same camera though.

Q4) Did you trim your ends? They look smoother this time.
A4) I only trim off KNOTS and weathered ends from my hair. I don’t trim my hair for “neatness”, I trim with purpose. I prefer the organic hair line look because I wear my hair naturally kinky 99% of the time.

Most people do what I call the “classic trim” which is FINE. As in, trimming off equal amounts all over the hair without regard for individual strands. Its quick and easy. But you WILL cut off perfectly fine hair. That’s the tradeoff. :-/

Q5) Your hair looks “healthier” 
A5) Hair has no “health”. And I hate that term because IN MY OPINION it doesn’t set your thinking right for maintaining your hair. Saying “healthy hair” implies that you can do bad things to it and it can be rejuvenated. It can’t. 

Hair is a fiber that can only be preserved or destroyed. Period. And well preserved hair looks well maintained. Say “healthy looking” if you need to, or hey say whatever you want. Lol! I’m just trying to remain consistent.:o)


All of the hair you see in this video January 2012, was on my head in January 2011. The only difference this time is that I used a bit more heat to straighten my ends because last year I blow dried AND flat ironed my hair. This time, I’ve only blown my hair out, so I used more heat to straighten. That’s it.

I wish you all well on your hair goals and life goals in general for 2012.
I will be posting LOTS & lots of videos on Youtube for the next few weeks, however, I will NOT be “present” on Youtube. As in interacting, reading, responding, etc.

Comments will be disabled or minimized as I focus on the launch of my hair care product line, hair device and most importantly the remainder of my pregnancy. Good or bad, noise is noise. And I have enough of it right now. :o)

THANK YOU for all your well wishes and congrats. My husband and I greatly appreciate the love.

I am, however, always “present” on Twitter (as many of you know!) You can find me there:
https://twitter.com/#!/kimmaytube

Or on my Tumblr blog:
http://kimmaytube.tumblr.com
Peace, 

Kim

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SIBIj1vxYM&feature=relmfu

Twitter Thursdays 12/29/2011

 ******TOPIC: ALOE & HOW LONG CAN IT BE PRESERVED?******

Question 1) @PttSophisticate  ASKS:  How long are you able to keep your aloe once opened and refridged? Also, what is your take on Aloe Gel…as an alt & on its own?

My Answer:

As long as I keep my (unaltered, pure as it came) aloe vera juice refrigerated after opening, I’ve found it lasts for weeks.  But if I leave it out for an extended period of time (say a few hours) then a weird dark cloud will appear at the bottom the next day. Yuck! And that’s when it gets thrown away!

Aloe Vera (Juice or Gel) is a product that will degrade and/or form mold without anti-microbial preservatives. Some preservatives are nastier than others.  For instance, DMDM Hydantoin has received a number 7- 8  on the EWG website because it is a known formaldehyde releaser.

  ******TOPIC: HAIR GROWTH******

Question 2) @candancemh  ASKS: is it possible to retain 6” per year (at 1/2” growth/mo.)? To me, that’s a lot of hair in a year and I want it!

Absolutely!  The average human being grows 6” of hair every year. This is not a gimmick, it is fact.  Since that 6” per year measurement is an average, some people grow more and others grow less in the same timeframe (just as some people are super hairy whereas others are not).

You will only be able to determine your hair growth rate by carefully measuring it over 3-6 months. Hair is just the result of cell division that occurs under the scalp.  The body is fairly consistent in reproducing cells. As long as you are in good health and eating properly, you will crank out a consistent amount and quality of hair.

But! Please keep in mind the difference between growing hair verses retaining hair.  Hair is a fiber that can only be preserved or destroyed.  Afro-textured, kinky hair is the most delicate hair type of all.

Whether people like it or not (and some seem like they don’t) kinky hair must be “tricked” into growing longer through gentle handling and protective styling. For growing, retaining and sustaining kinky hair, the key is balance.  And I’m referring to maximum growth.  Some people will grow hair —yes—- but few will maximize retention and see those 6 inches.

 ******TOPIC: MOISTURIZING & SEALING  Hair & Scalp******

Question 3) @FacesAllDolled Hi, I am not sure if it is the ends or the scalp, hair shaft and ends that I am suppose to moisturize and seal. How do you M&S?

Moisturizing and sealing generally refers to the hair strand.  However, our scalps are also skin and undergo the same turnover rate as other skin cells on the body. The problem with the scalp is that since it is hidden under hair, it can easily become ignored, mistreated and neglected.

The scalp should be washed on a regular basis, to free up any debris and microscopic dead skin flakes that have accumulated over the course of a week.  This helps to prevent the hair follicles on the scalp (which produce our hair) from becoming clogged.

Washing regularly also helps to prevent bacterial infections and moisturizes (water) the scalp in the process.

Generally, all human beings produce a sufficient amount of sebum, the skin’s natural waterproofing moisturizer as long as you keep it healthy.  So placing oils directly on the scalp should not be necessary since it is constantly producing its own oils.

But changes in the weather (especially winter time) can cause the scalp to become chapped (again much like our skin) and dried out.

I suggest that you use a scalp friendly pH balanced products (shampoo/conditioner) which will help to keep the scalp in a healthy state.  Like the hair, our skin has a pH balance between 4.5 - 5.5.  So aim for products in that range.

The same advice goes for the hair strand. Using a hair friendly pH balanced product will encourage the hair’s cuticles to close and then you can add your preferred oil (or leave-in) to seal that moisture in.  Some products are all in one and can do the job of both (close cuticles and seal).

Your hair should feel moisturized for 2-3 days depending on its porosity and the weather.  Just rinse your hair with water and/or re-apply your products if needed.

******TOPIC: SPLIT ENDS******

Question 4) @SuperZeeHi  ASKS: what could be causing my split ends?

Note: Please also see my answers from 11/17/2011.

But the short answer is that split ends can come from a number of sources: I’ll list them in order that are most likely.

a) Hair Tools - like combs and brushes.  Hair is not indestructible and therefore can be destroyed gradually through constant combing and brushing.  If you see lots of mid-hair shaft splits, it’s likely due to styling tools.

b) Rough handling with your hands —like ripping through knotted ends, or ripping through hair as you untwist or unbraid.

c) Weathering —which occurs over time to a hair strand (hair doesn’t last forever!)

d) Uneven Keratinization - this means the hair sprout from your scalp with weakness built in. Keep in mind that kinky hair often appears nearly flat as a ribbon underneath a microscope.  And on top of that it is a ribbon that varies in thickness along the strand.  This results in hair vulnerabilities.  You can’t do much about this except for handling your hair gently to prolong the strand’s lifespan enough to enjoy it.

 ******TOPIC: HAIR & HEAT (PRESSING COMBS)******

Question 5) @manurse24 when pressing hair what temp is best and what products to use to make it silky and bouncy?

My Answer: I have never pressed my hair, so I have no recommendations.  However, I will say that hair burns at the same temperature as paper “Fahrenheit 451” which is probably the reason people test their hot combs on paper towels before running it through their hair. 

Depending on the temperature used, pressing the hair can be more stressful and potentially more damaging than evenly coated ceramic flat irons.  A quality flat iron will distribute heat more evenly over the hair than a metal comb (and flat iron has the advantage of a more controlled temperature setting).

My advice?  Go to a professional salon that you trust. A salon that balances style with hair care (not all salons share or practice this philosophy) .  If you are inexperienced with heat, you could do serious, irreversible damage to your hair.                               

 ******TOPIC: HAIR DAMAGE FROM HEAT (PRESSING COMB)******

Question 6) @JoAnnJE for thursday: i got a trim a month ago, pressed my hair 2 days ago. now, ive noticed split ends. what could be the cause?

My Answer: Please consider the answers above (regrading split ends).  It is possible that your hair was damaged during the hair pressing process (especially since you’re noticing them after the fact).  High heat is very stressful to the hair. It exposes the hair’s vulnerabilities. 

Also, if the scissors used on your hair were blunt rather than sharp, this may have contributed to the problem.

All that you can do now is trim your ends again and be super cautious in the future. Contrary to popular belief,  heat straightening is not necessary for a good trim.  I often trim my hair on a regular basis in its stretched state (3 day old braids, twists).  If you want a neat, clean hemline or if your hair is horribly uneven, then trimming while straightened makes perfect sense.  But if you wear your hair in its curly/kinky state most often, it makes more sense to trim it in that state.

 ******TOPIC: PROTEIN TREATMENTS******

Question 7) @greatgrubgirl what r your thoughts about protein treatments on natural hair and do you do them? #TwitterThursdays

My Answer: Summary: As someone with natural, non-chemically treated hair, heavy protein treatments are simply not a big part of my hair care regimen. I personally prefer to focus on protecting and preserving the existing protein in my hair.  And I’ve been growing my hair for the past 4.5 years, never once using the most intense protein treatments. 

First, let me briefly explain the logic behind protein treatments.  The hair’s cortex, which is located underneath layers of cuticle, is comprised mostly of protein (roughly 90%).  Throughout the lifespan of a hair strand, protein can be lost due to heat, UV exposure from the sun, washing and chemical treatments (relaxers, texturizers & coloring). Please note that this is not an exhaustive list.  Just a few causes. 

To put it simply, protein treatments are often used to fill in gaps along the many bundles of protein within the hair strand to reinforce strength and longevity.  

Note: Look for ingredients like “hydrolyzed protein” on your product labels. They are considered the ideal size for maximum hair penetration.

Protein treatments come in varying degrees of intensity.  1)”Rinse in, rinse out versions”, 2) “apply and sit underneath a hair dryer” versions and 3) “Apply and blow dry until hair becomes hardened” versions.  The latter is considered to be the most effective since heat aids in binding protein molecules to the hair strand. 

I commonly use and prefer version #2.  I “deep condition” my hair every two weeks in the winter and every month during the summer (or warmer months).  Why? I’ve found that these conditioning treatments help with the pliability and overall feel of my hair (similar to the effect fabric softener has on clothes).

Remember: Hair is a fiber that can only be preserved or destroyed.

Prior to flat ironing my hair, (which I’ve only done once so far), I will use method #2 with a “reconstructor” protein treatment which is a bit heavier, more concentrated in protein than my normal “light protein” deep conditioning session.

People with chemically treated hair will benefit the most from intense or regular protein treatments because the structure of their hair has been compromised.  

I will say that I do not consider myself the “expert” on protein treatments because I have limited personal experience applying them and I’m not a professional stylist (they are used to doing these kinds of treatments due to the chemical treatments they offer their clients.).

Overall, protein to me is like a “band-aid” or a hair “steroid” since it can increase the heft and weight of your hair strands.  My personal approach to hair care is “do minimal harm” in the first place.  So I use protein treatments in light moderation. 

Note: Not to mention that heavier protein treatments can potentially change your hair’s natural curl and kink pattern.  Since these results are unpredictable, you won’t know what you’ll get until afterwards. Whether hair can “snap back” is unknown to me.  Further research is needed!

 ******TOPIC: DEEP CONDITIONING/ WHAT IS IT? PURPOSE?******

Question 8) @brichtweets deep condish. is it more so a technique (i.e., using heat) or is there a diff between prods marketed as condish & deep condish?

My Answer: Please also see the answer above. 

The term “conditioning” is confusing to people and I totally understand why.  It’s an umbrella term that actually covers a lot.  Pretty much anything that changes the “condition” of your hair is a conditioning treatment. Gels, leave-ins, mousses, rinse out conditioners, etc.

When people refer to “deep conditioning” usually they are referring to a method that deeply penetrates the hair strand beyond the cuticle surface.  As explained above, protein treatments (which come in various intensities) are a conditioning treatment. And since protein binds best to the hair when used with heat, that is probably the best use of the term “deep conditioning”. 

Many other ingredients included in hair products for “deep conditioning” don’t actually bind to the hair. Some are temporary fillers that will wash out over time.  Some of the fatty acids in certain oils can fit inside the hair strand, but again, they are not proteins and may offer temporary conditioning to the hair.

 ******TOPIC: KIMMAYTUBE’S NEW HAIR GOAL?******

Question 9) @caprimomx2 Now that you’ve reached your goal length, have you set a new hair goal? Not necessarily length but any aspect of hair care.

 My Answer: Now that the longest parts of my hair have reached hipbone length, I plan to sustain my hair by continuing my regimen of consistent care.  Pretty much, nothing changes.  For me, this is the perfect length because my hair shrinks up 30-50%.  In order to achieve the hairstyle looks that I favor, I need longer hair.

Plus, it should go without saying that since hair is literally my business, showing others how hair can be maintained over the long haul is at the core of my brand.

 ******TOPIC: NECESSITY OF PRESERVATIVES ******

Question 10) @CurvyCurlyTrini Question: I read in Paula Bergon website/book, that Preservatives are need in hair care products? What D difference btw

My Answer: Please check out EWG’s website to find out more information about specific preservatives.

But preservatives are considered necessary for products to increase their shelf life. For consumer health and protection, manufacturers must provide stable products that aren’t breeding grounds for bacteria and mold.

If you have an aversion to preservatives, you should look into becoming a “kitchen chemist” and whip up your own small batches/formulations that can be used within a week or two, negating the need for preservatives (in most cases).

Remember, water is the source and catalyst for life.  Anything containing water and other degradable organic materials will have to be preserved.

 ******TOPIC: HAIR & PH BALANCE FOR MAINTENANCE******

 Question 11) @tvshouze How often do u apply a ph balancer 2 ur hair? Is it only after u wash & condish?

My Answer: All of my products are “pH focused” or “pH conscious”.  From my shampoo, conditioners to my hair gel.  Keeping my hair in the desired range of 4.0 - 5.5pH is key to retaining moisture and pliable (not crispy) hair.

 ******TOPIC: HAIR EXTENSIONS******

Question 12) @leanciaP139v14 my hair is in single hair extensions. Is this protective style? How long should I keep them in? How do I keep them moisturised?

My Answer: Protective styling involves different levels. Here are a few. Hair should be:

a) Protected from itself (e.g. knots, tangles, clothing, purse straps) 

b) Protected from earth elements (wind/air dryness, UV from sun, dirt & debris) and;

c) Protected from daily manipulation (styling tools, combs, brushes)

I could really go on and on.  But as you can see, while in single hair extensions, your hair is protected from some things but not others.

The tricky thing about extensions is that they are so costly and time consuming that the wearer naturally desires to keep the style intact and looking good for as long as possible.

Depending on the type of hair used (synthetic or human) regular washing will unravel or frizz out the style.  So a lot of people will neglect their real hair because it is difficult to manage the two textures.

I have such little knowledge about single hair extensions that I had to google images! I’m familiar with braid extensions and even sported them a long time ago. So I know all about the “scalp itchies” associated with long term wear.

When striving for hair growth or well preserved hair, it is important to maintain both a healthy scalp and care for your individual hair strands. The scalp must be routinely cleaned of pollutants collected from indoor/outdoor environments and your own microscopic dead skin flakes.  So washing the hair is imperative.  The frequency is a personal choice.

Personally, I strive to wash my hair every 7 days and at the very latest, 10 days.

On the few occasions I’ve gone longer without washing or moisturizing my hair? My hair becomes dull and dried out.  This creates opportunity for breakage or what I call “hair bends”.  ”Hair bends” are brittle, creasing points along the strands that will eventually contribute to knots, tangles or breakage.

How long you keep your extensions in is up to you. But please know that even though you are wearing extensions, your real hair is still on a shedding cycle.  So the longer you keep those shed hairs “locked” into your hair, the more shed hairs that will need to be removed later.  This creates an opportunity for matted hair, tangles and knots.

A healthy human being will shed between 50-100 shed hairs a day.

So if you see a few hundred or thousand strands of hair when your extensions are removed, this is the reason why.

I feel hairstylists should provide their clients with better care instructions for their extensions. A good stylist would show you how to take a tipped nozzle squeeze bottle with a gentle shampoo and gently massage your scalp and how often to wash your hair.

Wearing a stocking cap over kinky twists or braids while washing hair can help to minimize unraveling.

I personally feel that extensions should not be left in for months.  I know this is a common practice with braids or kinky twists, but simply caring for our own hair is challenging enough without extra barriers.

Again, if possible try misting your real hair with moisturizer (preferably a product with water as the first ingredient), or cream and lotion forms.

With my limited experience on hair extensions of any kind, that is all I have to offer at this point.

 ******TOPIC: HEAT PROTECTANTS/ OIL VS. SILICONES******

BONUS Question 13) @tweetannick Hi! Speaking of hair straightening, what’s your opinion on using grapeseed oil as a heat protectant? 

I know some people use Grapeseed oil but I’ll tell you why I won’t. Silicones are a plastic/polymer protective coating. Oils? No.

Even manufacturing industries use the right (optimal) lubricant or barrier for the job. I treat my hair the very same way.

Plus, I’ve only seen hair studies showing how SILICONES absorb heat from heating tools. Yet to see a study on oils!

 

 © Copyright 2012 LUV Naturals ®  

 

 

 

This video pretty much sums up what I’ve experienced using pH balance to control my hair for the past few years.  Prior to this?  My hair was unpredictable and took days to become “right” again after washing. Not anymore.  From start to finish, I know how to care for my hair every week to get desired results. I knew there had to be some logic to hair care and maintenance! Hair is a fiber that I control.

Twitter Thursdays 12/22/2011

I only received a few questions for this week’s edition.  If I don’t remind people, I guess they forget. :o) So I’m just going to answer the few I’ve received.

TOPIC: MAINTAINING MOISTURE IN HAIR

Question #1)  @RaquiGarcia How do you moisturize *daily* after you’ve done a rod set? 

My Answer:  Firstly, adding water to a rod set would ruin the style. So I would not moisturize it with anything until I’m ready to wash or restyle my hair. 

I personally don’t moisturize my hair daily.   A leave in conditioner or styling product can be used to seal moisture (water) in your hair.  In fact, too much water can be a bad thing.  When the hair is wet, the hair strands are in a weakened state, which causes them to break easily. So you want to maintain balance as much as possible.

If your products aren’t helping to hold moisture in your hair for at least 2-3 days, try monitoring their pH balance.  The cuticle layers (which hold moisture in) function like window blinds on the hair.  When they lay flat, moisture (water) is held in longer.

Cooler temperatures cause cuticles to close and heat encourages them to rise. But the cuticle layers are also affected by pH balance. Alkalis cause them to open and acids encourage them to close.

A pH of 7.0 - 4.0 is regarded as safe for the hair, although I’ve seen some products with an acidity of 3.5pH.

Question #2) @CandyThorne what shampoo would you suggest for dry hair I use..  also I mix up these oil to help with hair growth vita E oil,lavender oil,rosemary oil and also castor oil and last aloe juice 

 

My Answer: I suggest a gentle shampoo at or below 7.0pH. Lower (slightly more acidic) is actually better in theory, since it helps to keep the hair cuticles closed, preventing hair from absorbing too much water. 

There is no such thing as a growth oil.  Essential oils like peppermint & tea tree can stimulate the scalp, which may help with circulation or relieve itching, but hair growth is simply cell division under the scalp.  Unless you are using a product with a hormone designed to treat hair loss, your body will produce hair normally.

Now if you’re referring to the use of oils to seal moisture in the hair to help preserve it by preventing breakage caused by dryness, then yes, oils can certainly help.  But keep in mind, oils do not moisturize.  They lubricate and seal (sit on top of) the hair strand.  Failing to wash oily hair may cause your hair to feel brittle and it will look matted as it collects dirt. Make sure to maintain a steady hair care regimen.

TOPIC: CO-WASHING

Question #3 I hear alot about co-washing but I notice you do not have a video on this is that just something to by choice or so not necessary

My Answer:  The longer you are natural (or caring for you hair in any state in general) the more you will see that beyond basic hair/scalp hygiene and preserving the hair strands, detangling and keeping hair moisturized, not much else is necessary when it comes to hair care.

Co-washing is something I rarely do because I have a low manipulation routine. But on the rare occasion I co-wash (rinse hair with a conditioner only) its done in between washes to give my hair a nice splash of water to prepare it for style setting without doing a full shampoo wash session.  

But I never use conditioner as an alternative to washing my hair with shampoo.  I know that conditioners contain cations (and oils, polymers, etc.) that leave something on the hair, while shampoos contain anions, which take things away (dirt, debris, flakes).

Ultimately, you’re going to have to experiment and decide for yourself.  As with everything, someone will swear by it, others will find it useless.

 


A warning against strange “hair fads” for hair growth

*from a spontaneous tweet rant* :o)

I’m almost hesitant to say anything about this cause there is so much willful ignorance regarding haircare — so this is take it or leave it

Got an email the other day from someone who has been using a latest fad hair regimen that involves among many things, not washing your hair for a month. And using certain combinations of “natural” products & maintaining a damp environment on one’s scalp—

All of this *supposedly* will attribute to hair growth. Sorry. Pure garbage. BUT, what concerns me is that the person has a scalp problem. The person who tried this fad regimen for hair growth wrote to me that her scalp now has a horrible odor & she’s experiencing hair loss. :-/

Now, she’s smart enough to have already scheduled a doctor’s appointment. Good. Cause that’s all I would’ve had to say to her. Please see a doctor!

Point is this. Please beware. There’s not a dermatologist in this country who would advise anyone of any hair type to forego washing.

This woman probably has a very bad bacterial infection on her scalp now. :-( Not washing hair combined with a damp environment =nothing good

People forget our scalp is just skin. It is covered with normal bacteria, yes. But throughout our day we pick up other pollutants, bacteria and our own microscopic shedding dead skin flakes.

Our hair & scalp picks up all kinds of stuff! I’m home 90% of the time & when I had Kev hold a magnifier to my hair he saw carpet fibers!  (ooh, get your mind out the gutter! lol.  Due to the air ventilation system that circulates in the house).

Our hair & scalp picks up SO many things. It accumulates over time. Water alone can remove *some* of it, but absolutely not all of it. :-/

Again, would u ever just wash your BODY with water alone for 30 days straight? I understand aversion to chemicals, but hygiene is important.

All of us have different body chemistry. For every woman who doesn’t wash hair for a month with no problems (*supposedly* cause you can’t smell it through your computer monitor) there will be another 100 women who will have problems. And those scalp/bacteria problems may trickle to the face. And cause bad acne or rashes.

I once handled the hair of someone who had what we considered “good hair” at the time. She never washed it. My palms were black after touching it.  I never looked at her “good hair” the same way again!

So that’s all I have to say. Its not about opinions. Ask yourself, what would a licensed doctor say to me? Science & medical standards matter!

So please be careful. There are no shortcuts to hair growth

Twitter Thursdays 11/17/2011

TOPIC: HEAT STRAIGHTENING (Preparation)

Question #1: I am planning on straightening my hair (blow dry then flat iron). Whats steps should I take? 

My Answer: Here’s what I did when I straightened mine earlier this year, without incurring damage.  

Step #1 Prepped my hair by washing/ deep conditioning/ keeping it well moisturized.  Since I typically wash my hair in twists, I parted it across and down the middle, resulting in four sections/twists.

Step #2 Detangled my hair THOROUGHLY while damp. I actually used my modified Goody brush (half bristle rows removed) then I divided my 4 hair twisted sections into about 16 twists total.

Step #3 I applied heat protectant to each individual section & used my blow dryer very gently! No comb attachment was used on the blow dryer. I used my Goody flex Detangling Comb. I bought a fine tooth bone comb, but wound up not using it. I just didn’t like the friction & rigidity.  Besides, my flex comb didn’t melt and was light and easy to handle.  It allowed me to be gentle with my hair as I used the blow dryer. :-)

I used the medium & high setting on the blow dryer. Now some people are against doing this! They fear heat bubbles, but I feared the flat iron more. :o) So I got my hair as blown out straight as possible, taking it easy on my ends though. (this is why my ends look very bushy in the video above)

Step #4 Then a few days later (I regret waiting) I pulled out my flat iron and used a medium heat setting on each section. I believe I used the 320 degree setting (have to double check) And I only went over my hair ONCE and slowly over each section.  I used a bone comb to separate my hair as I pulled the flat iron down.

Did you apply additional heat protectant prior to using the flat iron??

Yes, I added just a little bit more right before using the flat iron. I was a novice! I do NOT consider myself the heat straightening expert. I’ve yet to do it again since. But, all of my extra precautions seemed to pay off.  I experienced very minimal breakage during and after the session & my ends still curl up. (keep in mind my oldest hair is over 4 years old!)  

So watch as many Youtube videos as u can. See what others have done & choose the BEST method for YOU!

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TOPIC: WINTER DRY SCALP

Question #2 The cold weather is making my scalp dry and flaky. :( What can I use to help it 

My Answer:  To prevent dry scalp, I use shampoo with an acidic pH between (5.0 - 6.0) to help prevent flakiness.   Higher pH products can aggravate the scalp & interfere with the sebum the scalp naturally produces, which keeps our scalps lubricated. 

I don’t apply products to my scalp directly, but certainly some of it indirectly gets on my scalp through contact with my hair.  Jojoba oil is widely regarded as being an oil that most closely resembles our hair’s natural sebum. You can use that to keep your scalp lubricated & protected from the winter’s drying wind.  Also, wearing hats when outdoors can prevent wind and cold air dryness.

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 TOPIC: KNOTS

Question #3: Hi :) I have a lot of single strand knots and I was wondering should I attack slowly or just trim my hair? 

My Answer: Trimming off knots is really up to you. Personally, I don’t wait. I remove them as I see them. Knots create more knots!

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TOPIC: SPLIT ENDS

Question #4  I know you answered a million times but how do u get split ends and can i just trim my hair to fix this? 

My Answer: Split ends are usually cause by manual tools like brushes & also the general weathering of hair strands over time.  Yes, trimming them off (when you see them) is the best solution. Because weathered ends just contribute to tangles & knots.

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TOPIC: HEAT DAMAGE

Question #5 Hey Natural Diva.. I had my natural hair pressed out and one small section did not revert back as well as others. Help!!!! 

My Answer:  Hi there! :o) If ur hair does not revert after a few washes, it is possible that the bonds were broken by heat.  

Some people have used the “beer rinse”, like actual beer! Flat beer. And claim to have success reverting their hair back. But personally, I’ve never tried it (haven’t had the opportunity or needed to) Other acidic products (4 -6pH) make the hair contract.  So you can try apple cider vinegar or aloe vera juice rinse diluted in the “safe” pH zone of 4.0pH and see if your hair responds by curling or coiling up again.

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 TOPIC: HAIR GROWTH

Question #6  My hair is at a stand still right now. I been natural for almost three years and my hair hasn’t grown. Do you have any advice? 

My Answer: Your hair IS growing. Cause you are living & breathing. :o) And if you chopped it all off today it would grow back.  

The problem is that you’re not retaining length. Your hair is probably in survival mode. You grow as much as you break off every year.  In order to see growth progress, you will have to make a drastic change to your hair regimen /routine. You’ll have to preserve it in order to increase the lifespan of your hair strands. Only then will you see growth & minimal breakage.

For the next 3- 6 months spend a little more time handling your hair gently, keep it from ever becoming bone dry & protect the ends of your hair more often through protective styles.  Remember, hair is only a fiber that can be preserved or destroyed.

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TOPIC: WASHING WITH TWISTS 

Question #7 I wear twists 99.9% of the time. Is it necessary to take them down to wash or can I wash the twists and retwist/detangle after? 

My Answer: Yes! You can wash your hair in twists. It depends on how BIG they are. I find medium ones the best.  Medium twists are great because PRE-washing, you can untwist them & detangle, remove shed hairs, retwist each one very easily.

Medium twists are big enough to allow shampoo to clean your hair and then you can rinse and squeeze out excess water. You can even condition with medium twists too. 

Downsides to washing small twists? When they get wet? Tangles, tangles, knots, and knots. Can’t easily remove shed hairs from them. I don’t mess with small micro twists for this reason. They last longer, but require far more gentle handling when removing (due to potential of breakage)  Remember, with hair there is always greater strength in numbers!

And big twists, well, they don’t hold up very well under water! But they’re great if you’re just going wear your hair out in a big stretched fro!

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TOPIC: SPLIT ENDS 

Question #8 Just found out I have split ends :( Is it necessary to straighten your hair in order to clip your ends correctly? 

My Answer:

I clip split ends as I see them. They are especially easy to find on stretched hair, while detangling your hair before washing.  I’ve never had to straighten my hair before clipping my split ends or for trimming. And I wear my hair in its kinky s-curly state 99% of time. Rarely straight.

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TOPIC: What are PROTECTIVE STYLES?

Question #9 Do you consider -outs protective styles? What are wet sets? You said wets sets/gel sets aren’t protective styles in a few tweets

My Answer:

There are degrees/levels of protecting your hair. Keeping the ends of the hair protected is just one level.

“Wet sets” refer to wash n go styles. The hair is wet & products are placed on top to weigh the hair down & bind curls and coils together.  They are not protective styles. Protective as in preservation and protecting the hair from tangles, knots and the elements that degrade our hair (sun, wind, dust, debris).

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TOPIC: PROTECTIVE STYLES & MOISTURIZING

Question #10  When you have your hair in a protective style, do you take it down to moisturize daily, or perhaps ever other day? 

My Answer: Nope. When I apply my leave-in product to my hair I can go 4 days without doing anything to it. Longer depending on the weather.

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TOPIC: HEADWRAPS & HAIR PROTECTION 

Question #11 Do you consider complete head wraps a proper way to protective style? 

My Answer: Headwraps (and hats) are another level of protection for the hair. Protects the hair from sun damage. Because UV rays degrade hair BUT! :o) The hair must also be protected from itself (tangle, knots) & protected from dryness (moisture) in addition to that.

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TOPIC: TRULY DETANGLED HAIR?

Question #12 How do you know if your hair is well detangled? And do you have any detangling techniques that would quicken the process? 

My Answer: I’ll tell u how I know if my hair is thoroughly detangled. Can I run my fingers from root to tip? If I can run my fingers (gently) through my kinky, damp hair, root to tip & no shed hairs come out, & no tangles or knots? All done!

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TOPIC: GLYCERIN USES

Question #11 What is glycerin used for? Benefits of glycerin use? 

My Answer:  Glycerin is a humectant. It attracts water and can draw moisture from the air to your hair. It is also used in formulations to enhance the consistency and slipperiness of a hair product.

In the winter, avoid using it alone because your hair has more moisture than the winter’s less humid air and the humectant (glycerin) can steal it from you! :o)

If glycerin is just one of many ingredients in a hair product (oils, conditioning agents, etc.) then its okay to use in the winter. Many hair care products contain some amount of glycerin in them.

© 2011 LUV Naturals, LLC